Beams inside work

After a long wait I can get on with the beams. I need to cut open the drains i made in the bulkheads. There are 10 in each beams, so a good metod was needed: I first cut with the Fein cutter.It can cut pretty close. Damn good tool.
I clean up the hole with the strait grinder. This is also an excellent tool, and cheap to (Biltema for those readers living in Scandinavia). Works much better than the Dremel wannabees I tried.

I also had to install the end caps for the UPS pin. First cut to size, securely fastened, you cannot hold a carbon laminate this small size with your fingers. (oucch%&€#"!?§§)
The entry side is opened up to accept the pin (19 mm) Big drill needed!


Preinstall to see that all fits before messing with epoxy.

I needed a pulller to get the pin out. In the book Ian Farrier writes the pin should be able to rotate (yeah man with some force it will.)

The two caps are glued in place with the waxed pin in place. Also the plastic tube is fitted to prevent water enter the beam.



After the glue had cured I had to really blow the puller hard to get the pin out, even with several layers of wax.

Bogging port hull

I use the Australian word, bog for this. The American/English word putty sounds like something you might eat..... Bog is a mix of epoxy and a filler, fillers can be wood dust, glass bobbles (very very small) micro balloons, silica and various others used in boat building.

For this purpose I use micro balloons a brownish powder.

First I cut the seams open with a sharp utility knife and for tricky places I use the pneumatic

straight router. It is like a Dremel tool, I chose this version since I burnt out a Dremel (a copy though) doing carbon fiber. The carbon got stuck in the bushings I believe.

Then using a candy bag I apply the bog two times with no sanding in between ( apply second layer in less than 12 hours).
Sanded and ready for laminate. Note the 5 cm edge of bog at the perimeter of the hull. This is for the vacuum tape. I do not trust that the foam will make a airtight glue with the tape, although other builder do without. But not much extra work to be sure.

Lower port hull planked and HD inserts

The planking of the lower hull is now ready to fit HD inserts , short for high density ( hard foam 200 kg/m3). These pieces are used everywhere compression will occur, like fitting locations, but also along keel for trailering loads.
First I had to fit another batten on top to hold the extra foam, needed for vacuumtape.

Here I marked the two cutting lines for the keel HD, with this simple guide.

Cutting the foam out using a Fein cutter (this machine, I borrowed from a friend, is very usefull in a project like this)
Test fitting the HD strip.

Fitting foam on mainhull

Jess has been helping me before and I asked him to help fit the foam since when you are two persons, it is a lot easier and no screws on the inside is needed. As with the floats I cut the foam in 40 cm strips and route a shiplap each side (see feb. 2007 for detail). From frame 4 and forward we went to 30 cm strips since the bend is sharper at the keel.
We fasten a new strip in the middle and start hotforming the bottom part first (actualy it is the top but on the picture it looks like down!!!). As Jess is moving the heatgun I apply pressure and try to overbend it since it tends to springback a little. Proper heating is very importent since the holding power of the screws are poor. The strip has to be shaped to lay close to the battens as possible.


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Foam is screwed from the outside. Jess is pressing the foam down as we go. Some places needs two or more screws to hold the foam.

Setting up frames

The frames was cut from fullsize drawings and set at 60 cm distance on the frame. Here from the stern. The frames are cut 18 mm larger than the hulskin itself to add for the battens.

Seen from the rear.

Fitting battens