Fitting top to beams

Fitting top is strait forward. Masking tape is set on an angle on each bulkhead and web and a lot of bog filled into these triangels. Also edges got a nice big round of bog. I use glassbubbles for this bog. When top is fitted it is turned upside down so bog can form a triangel to top.
It is not my favorite way of putting laminates together, but it seems like the only option here. I guess Mr. Farrier knows that this will be ok.

Fitting strut bearing to beams

I bought a complete folding set from Precourt Canada since do-it-yourself sometimes is not worth it. The finish and general standard of these fittings is very high, and it can be difficult to obtain materials in such small quantities and quality. In my opinion your time is better used building the boat. You would not build your own winches or would you??

The 4 bearings (on each beam) with bushes bought from Farrier Marine. And they fit perfect the Precourt fittings. This is a complete set of bushes from F-boat Store

The strut also needs a bush

Test fitting and drilling holes.
Checking device to make sure strut is in the middle. (Thanks Rod "Chillax" , F82R Melbourne, AUS, for the inspiration to this. )Care full mark is important, as well as enough bog, this time I use high density filler.

Done and cleaned.

A look inside beam.Approximate position just upside down

Beams inside work

After a long wait I can get on with the beams. I need to cut open the drains i made in the bulkheads. There are 10 in each beams, so a good metod was needed: I first cut with the Fein cutter.It can cut pretty close. Damn good tool.
I clean up the hole with the strait grinder. This is also an excellent tool, and cheap to (Biltema for those readers living in Scandinavia). Works much better than the Dremel wannabees I tried.

I also had to install the end caps for the UPS pin. First cut to size, securely fastened, you cannot hold a carbon laminate this small size with your fingers. (oucch%&€#"!?§§)
The entry side is opened up to accept the pin (19 mm) Big drill needed!


Preinstall to see that all fits before messing with epoxy.

I needed a pulller to get the pin out. In the book Ian Farrier writes the pin should be able to rotate (yeah man with some force it will.)

The two caps are glued in place with the waxed pin in place. Also the plastic tube is fitted to prevent water enter the beam.



After the glue had cured I had to really blow the puller hard to get the pin out, even with several layers of wax.

Bogging port hull

I use the Australian word, bog for this. The American/English word putty sounds like something you might eat..... Bog is a mix of epoxy and a filler, fillers can be wood dust, glass bobbles (very very small) micro balloons, silica and various others used in boat building.

For this purpose I use micro balloons a brownish powder.

First I cut the seams open with a sharp utility knife and for tricky places I use the pneumatic

straight router. It is like a Dremel tool, I chose this version since I burnt out a Dremel (a copy though) doing carbon fiber. The carbon got stuck in the bushings I believe.

Then using a candy bag I apply the bog two times with no sanding in between ( apply second layer in less than 12 hours).
Sanded and ready for laminate. Note the 5 cm edge of bog at the perimeter of the hull. This is for the vacuum tape. I do not trust that the foam will make a airtight glue with the tape, although other builder do without. But not much extra work to be sure.