I got the Ronstan Carbon triple blocks for the mainsheet, just trying them out with some dyneema sk 75, this is for the big purchase, finetune is the same just a two block also with a cleat.
Here is the setup I use, white protection suit and gloves.
Bow with HD for winch u-bolt.
Carbon tube for bowpole stay(?)
Daggerboard case with carbon stringers. The red color comes from the spray adhesive used to hold fabrics in place before infusion. I know of builders that use syntetic stamples but I dont find them here in DK, they can be found in the Nederlands but in large quantities >5000 .
Per Folm sold me some 7 mm Dynex Dux line and Colligo timples to make shrouds, so I made the modified Brummelsplice, very easy to do.
Interior is ready to get boat out of the mold. Lots of firewood for the winter.....
Bottom of boat.
Filling holes and seams to infuse the bottom.
Deck infused, I choose to do it in two tempies, since working with the boat on the side makes it quite high.
I fitted the ancherwell floor in place before fitting the starboard side of the forward bulkhead. This mean that I was able to tape both the bottom and top of the plate in the watertight compartment. Plan origanally is to fit this floor from the top through the ancher hatch; so no proper taping of the bottom of the floor is possible. I had to fit the bulkhead after this difficult task was accomplished, and tape the bottom part of the bulkhead using a mirror to see that I was doing OK. I was taping through a 15 cm hole for a inspectionhatch. Below a shot from inside the watertight compartment that show the tape is fitted well. When I later do the ancherhatch I can do the remaining taping to floor and bulkhead. 
When taping difficult-to-reach-places, a good method is: apply a coat of resin to the joining pieces with a brush after the bog fillet is done. Wet out tape properly using brush, air roll and scraper on a table or piece of ply covered with plastic so no air is visible. Place tape over join, you can use a stick or spartel or whatever the situ calls for use imagination, use (long) brush/ cloved hand to remove air, maybe the alu roll, and last use peelply to make it stick and to make a surface that is almost ready for paint/filler. I even did upsidedown taping in the watertight compartment using two pieces instaed of one, makes it easier than one long that tends to fall down before you reach the far end. Giving a good coat of resin to the surface is an absolut must, dont be affraid to spend 25 g of resin on this. 
Also did some taping of deck and case with layers of unicarbon.
I had to straiten the port side a bit before gluing stem together. I fitted a strip of foam from the inside and another one on outside (no picture yet). 
I plan to make a through hull carbon tube for the bowsprit bob stay instead of an U bolt or a carbon tang as used on the F22. 
Here it is glassed. Before I fitted it 2 layers of glass was laminated 1x800 and 1x400 g. Guess that will be strong enough.
For the trailer I went for the trad. Ubolt since I got it already. Here is the inside HD double strip glassed.
