Laminated one float.

Jorn came by to spend some days with us, fishing, and helping me out with the lamination of the outer skin. Here we unwrap the last half (did one side at a time). If I had those synthetic staples then maybe I could do both in one go, but I don't mind splitting the process into two sessions. I use the same bag, sealing it at the stern and bow. It is so big that I just cut of the sealant tape at one end and reused it. I can still use it for the other half.

Checking the quality and it is fine. Sorry I did not use camera while laminating but I was alone the first half, will shot some the next half.

Note hat competition: Who got the highest stupid looking hat. And the winner is me off cause(to the left just to be sure)

Sanding and filling

So I am filling and sanding two times, first I fill lows then sand with longboard(1/2 hour each side) then another fill, then a pass with the excenter, which is connected to the vacuum cleaner and therefore cleans all the dust from longboard. The longboard could be made with a connection to the VC but I don't think it is that dusty yet. Maybe I do it when the real sanding gets going after the lamination of outer skin. It look like a lot of bog but it is quite thin. And I think I save some work in fairing a bit not instead of doing all fairing on top of glass. I shall see if it proves to be the way to do this. All Farrier writes on this is like: fair until reasonable fair but avoid using to much bog as it adds weight. True but the boat needs to be fair and it is better to sand foam than fairing compound. Well I hope I'm doing fine. I must admit that I should have been more aware of the scallop effect I wrote about earlier. It could have saved some pounds. I think I used a kilo of bog per float, and then I sanded 30% off so we are taking 0.75 kilo. Compare to the estimated weight of the outer skin that will be glass 7 kilo, epoxy app. 6 kilo = 13 kilo. So then the bog is not a weight issue to me. But I fear that the fairing compound will be a lot more weight, I guess 5 kilo pr float maybe more. But we will see........ From the corner again

Float Hatches

I know this should have been before fairing and chainplates but I did not find time for blogging until now, so I do 3 blogs in a row.

So a hatch needs edges and I start with the ends

Then I do the corners first and fix these to the hull.

A screw here and there keep sides in place.


The sides are now glue to ends and a filling bog is set in the vcorner for glassing.

Ready for glass. I do both in-and outside. This is to fasten the vacuum bag later so the outer fabric will overlap this layer.

Glassed and peel ply on top. Peel ply is so nice to use and it make a great texture to bond next layer without or minimum sanding.

Finished hatch opening. A little bigger that in the plans but I hope it is alright. I got some big light hatches very cheap so that is why. But a big hole is convenient to load stuff, and to work in, when upside down .

This is the hatch I bought, 35 euro a piece, that is a tenth of a a normal hatch with alu frame and acrylic glass. And they are light!! I hope they are water tight, manufacturer claim that they are.

Chain plate install

I test the fit before filling bog in corners and glassing.


Tip: Do install chain plate before joining, it is much easier than to do it through a 150 mm hole.
High density foam in place.

Final fitted stil with peelply , great stuff that keeps the glass tight.