Fairing beams and prep. for vaccumbag deck

Mixing fairing compound for beams.

First coat applyed, and sanded, it is not an easy job fairing beams, and the netrails does not make it any easier. Apart from looking nice I dont believe there is any weight saving at all, originally Farrier calls for small alu plates inside beam for tapping screws into and U shaped fittings on outside. If I had know how much work went into fitting and fairing netrails I might have chosen U fittings. Buying premade beams may be expensive, but it is a huge time saver, do it if they are available for you prefered boat (F22 and F32). Apart from that it is quite fun to make the beams, such a complex part of the boat and folding system.

All set for vacuumbagging deck. I prepare everything as much as I can, cut all material, laminate, reinforments, peelply, slipfilm and bleeder (as an experiment I have sprayglued film and bleeder together so I can apply them as one, more on this later). Vacuumtape all around and bag sealed to one side with airline attached, so work is minimised once resin is mixed. Not that I am in a hurry, I use extra slow hardener, but if something is wrong I got time to fix it, typically a leak in the foam.

Laminated starboard side

I forgot to post this picture but it shows hull after vacuum bagging inside laminate, including uni carbon strip along keel. Also I cut down the extra stringer at top so this side is ready for hull join.

Also you can see the to high no. 12, 13, 14 frames to the right, that I mentioned in previus post.

Cockpit seat fitted + HD inserts for deckfittings

Aft cocpitseat and stern plate fitted, it is a strait forward job, note I cut down the formframes no. 12, 13 ,14 all that was above hull, I should have done that on the first half, just a mistake when making the formframes.

I fitted all the HD inserts now, I stick to Ian Farriers setup, it looks fine and I see no reason to chance it. One thing that might be of interest is how far in/out the jib track is placed. It can only be seen when sailing. I think that if you try to pinch the boat it will go higher to the wind but much slower.

The remains from 12 mm foam, both deck halfs, pile on left to the bin, pile on right might get another chance, as some places you will need small pieces.
I think the waste procentage is pretty good, it must be 1-2 %, and it please me since this Corecell foam is quite expensive ( 12 mm x 122 X 244 cm is 103 € that is 34.50 € /m2). High density foam is ridiculous expensive, it is 127.50 € / m2, and the smallest sheet you can get is 0.9 x 183 cm.

Thermo forming

Sometimes by bending the foam it creates a cap between stringer and foam, biggest where I put the screw. I found that if I heat it gently on the outside the, foam expand out and close the cap.
Using hotgun on the outside.



Same strip as above.

Planking starboard hull

Planking in progress, note extra 5cm stringer at top for vacuumtape, also extra stringer where high density insert along keel.
I start at in the middle then going down and last working my way up.

Planking bottom is done.
After filling grooves high density insert is fitted, here the cutter is very helpfull. Seen is keel insert and insert for log.



Ready for the laminate.

New tools and marking tips.

I bought this set of 10.4 volt litium battery tool set, an offer I could not resist. This set is perfect for a project like this. Drills are more than strong enough for the work needed and the cutter is very good. I used to borrow a Fein cutter but this one is more handy with no cord, although a bit thirsty. From left to right: cutter (and triangel sander) adjustable angle screwdriver, impact screwdriver, drill, LED lamp

Using a bicycle spoke to mark position of cockpit floor. It is long enough to make the mark vertical and easy to push through the foam.

View from inside.

Port side on trailer

Port side waiting to join starboard side. Beams ready for fairing. These are in full carbon. The gray one is just rough sanded.

Planking starboard hullhalf

I showed it before, and it works really well, cutting a rabbat using a table router.


Here I glued two strips together.

Tips for foam cutting

I was running short of 12 mm foam so I found that if I cut all the sheets in 30 cm I could join them in one long strip and from that cut what ever lenght I need.

Another benefit from this is that it is very easy to bend and work by yourself. You can reach from a gap in the stringers and counter hold while fastening on the outside. Only the last few plank are made from 15 cm strips. I use to cut foam in 40 cm strips, but I find it harder to heat form and because shape of boat change more than on a big boat 30 cm strips work best (for me!)




Only one clamp holding piece in place. I scripe the gap to mark the cut off of the new strip. I do not use the rabbet here since I am short of 12 mm foam. Reason is that I did not understand Mr Farrier when he writes in plans that deck and cockpit floor should be made from 12 mm foam. I made the cockpit seats in 12 mm foam as well, but then I was short of 1 sheet. I am glad I made seatings in 12 mm since I will be walking on then as well as on the cockpitfloor.
I know of a canadian builder (Etienne and Annie's F82R, see link list to the right>)that made everything on the the boat from 10 mm foam.

Marking with dividers.

Infusion port side

Hi all

It's been a long time but this project is not over yet allthough some might have that thought..... I tried to infuse the outer half of the BB side and it went quite allright. Reason was that I have tried it on my job (Mathis værft, Aalborg) and I could do all details that should be done later in one shot. That included window rebatted and the tube for the net. I shot a sort of video that was just for the fun of it.